A Cool Female Chef Shares 3 Recipes & A Fun Cooking Playlist
Image: @mambow_ldn
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A Cool Female Chef Shares 3 Recipes & A Fun Cooking Playlist

Next up in our Plates & Playlists series is Abby Lee, head chef at Mambow – the cult London restaurant known for its bold Malaysian flavours, fearless use of spices and always-buzzy dining room. We caught up with Abby to ask her some quick-fire questions – plus, she shared three of her go-to recipes and a playlist to soundtrack your time in the kitchen.
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Image: @mambow_ldn

How did you get into cooking? 

I grew up around food. My family owned bakeries in Singapore, and I always used to see my grandma and auntie cooking at home. One of my earliest memories is watching my grandma cook assam pedas, a classic Malaysian stew dish translated literally as ‘sour spicy’. I really got into cooking at university though, when I started hosting dinner parties for my friends to experiment with flavours and recipes. I found cooking to be an escape from my day-to-day routine, something I could fully immerse myself in – that’s when I decided to pursue it further.

Sum up your life and/or cooking journey in three songs… 

  • ‘Chaotic NRG’ – Panteros666, Chippy Nonstop
  • ‘Dance’ – ESG
  • ‘Orange Coloured Liquid’ – Spooky 
Ultimately, the most MEMORABLE RESTAURANT EXPERIENCES have curated playlists that reflect their IDENTITY and food style.

Do you often cook with music on?

Music helps me focus, get in the zone and stay on my prep list. There are a few set playlists I come back to depending on my mood. They are all upbeat – except one, which I use when I just need ambient, ethereal sounds to relax me. There are days though, when the team just want a true crime podcast on. Cooking at home is usually a split between background TV or having music on.

In your mind, are music and food the perfect combination? 

I think so. I still enjoy the no-frills restaurants out there that have no music, and it’s all about the conversation and the dishes. But ultimately, the most memorable restaurant experiences have curated playlists that reflect their identity and food style. It makes the dishes come alive.

What’s the perfect song to capture the hustle and bustle of cooking at Mambow?

‘Limousine’ – Niina. 

@Mambow_LDN
@Mambow_LDN

If your kitchen crew at Mambow had an anthem, what would it be?

‘Nails, Hair, Hips, Heels remix’ – Todrick Hall, Ciara.

What does your weekend playlist look like? 

My weekend playlist goes into a lot more techno, acid, trance and UK bass. 

How would you describe the ‘vibe’ of Mambow's menu in three music genres?

Cosmic disco, house euphoria and soul.

What dish at Mambow deserves its own signature song?

The Chilli Crab Kuih Pie Tee. 

If you had to put one food trend on ‘mute’ this season, what would it be?

More iterations of the smash burger.

Do you have a song you always turn on to unwind after a busy day?

‘Sexotheque’ – La Roux.

Talk us through the playlist you’ve shared with us – why those picks? 

It’s a real blend of the 80s: synth pop, Italo, house, trance. I just like a bit of everything, and hate being stuck in one area for too long. I think my playlist shows the range of moods I go through while cooking.


Feeling inspired? Abby shares three delicious recipes...

Assam Heh (Fried Tamarind Prawns) 

Serves
4
Ingredients
580g of shell-on prawns
2 tbsp of granulated sugar
1 tbsp of dark soya sauce (or cooking caramel is ideal)
1 tbsp of light soya sauce
115g of seedless tamarind pulp
230g of water
½ tsp of fine sea salt
vegetable oil
Method
Step 1

Remove the shell of just the body, leaving the tail end and the head. Devein the prawns.

Step 2

Soak the tamarind pulp with hot water for 10 minutes. Once cool enough to handle, use your hands to really squeeze the pulp and water together to create a smooth paste.

Step 3

Add the tamarind puree to a bowl with the prawns, sugar, dark soy, light soy and salt. Leave to marinate for 30 minutes.

Step 4

Remove the prawns from the marinade and strain it. In a wide pan or wok, heat enough oil to shallow-fry over medium heat, sear both sides of the prawns until lightly caramelised, and set aside.

Step 5

Add the marinade and reduce it slightly to get sticky. Have a taste at this point to see if you’d like it sweeter or saltier; I usually add more sugar.

Step 6

Finally, get the prawns back in to properly coat each one, until all of them are sticky and caramelised. Serve.

Squash Kapitan (Coconut, Lemongrass & Turmeric Curry)

Serves
4
Ingredients
For the spice paste
50g of lemongrass, remove ¼ green tops & outer shell
70g of long red chilli
10g of dried Kashmiri chilli, boil in water for 5 minutes until softened
3 large cloves of garlic
175g pf banana shallot
4cm piece of ginger
4cm piece of galangal
5g of ground turmeric
For the curry
2pcs of kaffir lime leaf
25g of granulated sugar
15g of tamarind concentrate
50g of coconut milk
2 of cups water
Fine sea salt, to taste Crispy onions to serve
Squash of your choice, crown prince squash would be mine
1 lime
Crispy onions to serve
Vegetable oil
Method
Step 1

Make the spice paste first. Roughly chop the red chilli, shallot and ginger. Thinly slice the lemongrass and galangal. Add all of these to the food processor and blend until smooth. Stir through the turmeric.

Step 2

Make the curry next. Heat 1cm of oil to medium heat, and fry the spice paste until the oil has separated from the paste. This could take around 30-45 minutes. Turn the heat down slightly if it starts catching. Stir occasionally.

Step 3

Add the sugar and a big pinch of salt. Let the paste caramelise for another 5 minutes. Stir in the water, kaffir lime leaf and tamarind. Let it simmer for 20 minutes. In the meantime, cut your squash into wedges, season lightly with salt, pepper and olive oil, and roast in a 200 °C oven until tender and slightly charred, for about 20-30 minutes.

Step 4

Stir the coconut milk into the curry. Check the consistency: it should be rich and thick so if not, reduce it further. Taste to see if you’d like more salt and sugar, or even more coconut. Serve with your charred squash wedges, a squeeze of lime and crispy onions.

Kay Pachok, Tamarind Sauce (Peranakan Chicken Skewers) 

Serves
4
Ingredients
1kg of boneless skinless chicken thigh, cut into bite-sized pieces
18cm skewers, soaked in water for at least an hour
Banana leaf (optional), cut to 14cm squares & softened over heat
For the marinade
200g of red onion
75g of long red chilli
10g of belacan, or shrimp paste
10g of galangal
25g of kerisik (roasted, desiccated coconut until brown, blended to a paste)
10g of chilli powder
1.5 tsp of coriander powder
1.5 tsp of fennel powder
150g of coconut cream
25g of Thai palm sugar
1 tbsp of brown sugar
½ tsp of fine sea salt
For the tamarind sauce
20g of seedless tamarind pulp
20g of fish sauce
45g of Thai palm sugar
85g of water
1-2 long green chilli, cut into 1cm thick slices
1-2 birds eye chilli (optional if you like more spice), slice thinly
½ red onion, cut chunky
Method
Step 1

Make the marinade first. Roughly chop the red onion, red chilli and galangal. Blend this with the belacan until smooth.

Step 2

Add this to a pan with the rest of the ingredients, simmering on a low heat for around 20 minutes or so, until slightly thickened. Season at the end with more salt and sugar to taste. Let it cool. Mix this with the chicken pieces and let them marinate for at least an hour. Skewer the chicken pieces and heat a pan, a 200 °C oven or a barbecue. Grill until cooked through, basting with any remaining marinade as it cooks.

Step 3

Lightly sprinkle some flaky salt over to finish. I like wrapping the skewers in banana leaves to rest the chicken and absorb its aromas. Use a thin strip of banana leaf to tie them up.

Step 4

Make the tamarind sauce by bringing the tamarind, fish sauce, palm sugar and water to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer for 10 minutes. Break up the tamarind pulp as much as you can. Let the sauce cool before adding the chillies and red onion.

Step 5

Pour over to serve.

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