How To Care For Different (& Sometimes Unusual) Pets
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How To Care For Different (& Sometimes Unusual) Pets

From reptiles and rabbits to birds and more unusual companions, owning a pet outside the usual cat-and-dog mould comes with its own set of questions. What do they need to eat? How much space do they require? And how do you keep them happy and healthy? We asked three experts to share a few insights for the more unusual pets out there, from getting their environment right to understanding their day-to-day needs.
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GENERAL TIPS

“The more unusual the pet, the more demanding its care is likely to be. Most exotic pets are wild animals, so their natural environment needs to be recreated as closely as possible, from specialist lighting and heating to suitable enclosures and diets. Social media has made unusual pets more visible but prospective owners should always research a species thoroughly before committing. It’s important to understand the costs, time involved and expected lifespan before bringing one home.”  –  Rachel Croucher, veterinary surgeon at CVS Vets

“Thorough research is essential, ideally going beyond online searches to include advice from experienced keepers and a vet. They can offer guidance on a species’ health and welfare requirements, from diet and housing to any particular challenges. It’s also vital to think about the long-term commitment: some animals have exceptionally long lifespans, and tortoises, for example, can even outlive their owners.” – David Martin, group animal welfare advisor for IVC Evidensia, the largest corporate veterinary group in Europe 

“Ultimately, owning an exotic pet means taking responsibility for recreating the conditions it would experience in the wild. From diet and exercise to opportunities to express natural behaviours, the aim should be to provide an environment in which the animal can genuinely thrive, not simply survive." – Dr Walter Natoli, MRCVS GPCert(ExAP), branch partner at Medivet Danbury

HORSES

Equipment & housing

“The biggest responsibility of owning a horse is ensuring its welfare needs are met. These can be summed up by the three ‘Fs’: forage, friends and freedom. Horses are naturally social animals, so keeping one on its own, without other horses to interact with, is not good for its welfare. They also need plenty of space to move around, which means access to regular turnout is essential. Keeping a horse stabled 24/7 is not appropriate; ideally, they should have access to a suitably sized field where they can graze and move freely, alongside shelter such as a stable or barn to protect them from the weather. Horses also need regular checks and interaction, normally at least twice a day, as well as grooming, exercise and having their rugs changed to suit the weather. The amount of exercise required will depend on the horse’s age, breed and intended purpose but daily movement is important for maintaining fitness and providing mental stimulation. Owners should also factor in regular veterinary care and routine health checks.” – David

Feeding

“The majority of a horse’s diet should be fibre-based. Horses have evolved to eat a high-volume diet and spend many hours of the day grazing. In spring and summer, this often means they can help themselves to the natural ‘self-service buffet’ provided by the grass in their field. During the winter months, however, owners need to provide substantial amounts of preserved forage, usually hay or haylage, often 10kg or more each day. Some horses may also need additional hard feed, depending on their individual requirements. Forage needs careful planning, both in terms of sourcing and storage. Supplies can be limited and expensive, particularly following periods of drought, and storing enough hay to feed a horse throughout the winter requires a considerable amount of space. Owners also need to think about what happens after feeding: a horse eating 10kg of hay a day will produce a significant amount of muck that needs clearing. Horses also have complex digestive systems. If they develop a stomach ache, known as colic, they can become very unwell. Signs of abdominal discomfort include sweating, repeatedly looking at their belly, kicking at themselves or persistently trying to roll. These signs should never be ignored, and owners should contact their vet promptly if they appear.” – David

FISH

Equipment & housing

“Fish need more space than many people realise, with tanks typically ranging from 50 to 200 litres depending on the species. Before buying one, think about where it will go, as a full tank can be surprisingly heavy. Freshwater fish are generally easier for beginners, as saltwater species require closer monitoring of water conditions. Guppies and betta fish are often good starting points. The right set-up should include adequate space, filtration, suitable water temperature and plenty of plants or hiding places. A new tank should also be left to establish for around four weeks before fish are introduced, allowing beneficial bacteria to develop and help manage waste.” – Rachel

“Fish are often seen as low-maintenance pets but keeping them healthy requires a good understanding of their needs and environment. Choosing the right species is a key starting point, as factors such as tank size, adult growth, water conditions and compatibility all play a part. Goldfish, for example, need far more space and filtration than many owners expect, making traditional fishbowls unsuitable. It’s also important to remember that clear water doesn’t necessarily mean a healthy tank. Fish rely on a carefully balanced environment, so proper filtration, an established nitrogen cycle and regular water testing are essential. Overcrowding, overfeeding and adding fish before the tank is ready are among the most common mistakes.” – Dr Walter

Feeding & health

“Most adult fish need feeding once or twice a day, but overfeeding can cause health problems and affect water quality. As a general guide, only give them as much as they can eat in three minutes. Regular maintenance is equally important: carry out 25-50% water changes every couple of weeks, test water quality monthly and deep-clean the tank every three to six months, depending on its size. Keep an eye on changes in appetite or behaviour, rubbing against surfaces, gasping at the water's surface or unusual swimming patterns, as these can all be signs that something isn't right.” – Rachel

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CHICKENS

Equipment & housing

“Keeping chickens at home can be rewarding but they need more space and attention than you might expect. Allow around one or two square metres of outdoor space per bird, ideally in a securely fenced area to stop them scratching up lawns and flower beds. They’ll also need a secure coop or shed where they can be locked away at dusk to protect them from foxes and other predators, with raised perches and nesting boxes inside.” – David

“Chickens need a secure outdoor space to roam and forage, alongside a sheltered nesting house that can be locked at night to protect them from predators and bad weather. Inside, provide soft, easy-to-clean flooring, straw or wood shavings for nesting and perches. Bear in mind that chickens love to scratch and dig, so an enclosed area can help protect your garden. Moving their run regularly will also prevent the ground and plants from becoming too damaged.” – Rachel

Feeding & health

“For feeding, a proprietary chicken layer mix will provide the nutrients they need, alongside access to both insoluble grit to aid digestion and soluble grit for calcium and healthy eggshells. Kitchen scraps are illegal to feed to poultry in the UK due to the risk of spreading disease. Health-wise, parasites such as red mites are a common problem, while avian influenza is another important concern. Watch for signs such as fluffed-up feathers, loss of appetite, discharge from the eyes or nose and diarrhoea, and contact a vet promptly if anything seems wrong.” – David

“While they’ll naturally forage for insects and earthworms, their diet should be supplemented with commercial pellets, plus insoluble grit to aid digestion and soluble grit for calcium. Fresh fruit and vegetables make good treats, but kitchen scraps are illegal to feed to chickens in the UK. Chickens are good at hiding signs of illness, so look out for subtle changes in their behaviour, appetite or activity levels. For laying hens, a drop in egg production or changes to the shape and quality of eggs can also indicate a problem. Common health issues include being egg-bound, egg peritonitis, mites and other parasites, as well as digestive conditions such as sour crop.” – Rachel

BIRDS

Equipment & housing

“Birds, particularly parrots, are intelligent, social animals that need considerable time, attention and mental stimulation to thrive in captivity. They can live much longer than dogs or cats, form strong bonds with their owners and become destructive or distressed if bored or lonely. Some species need the company of other birds, while larger parrots and birds of prey have particularly complex needs and are not suitable for first-time owners. Space is also essential: a cage should primarily be used for sleeping, with plenty of room to stretch their wings and multiple perches of different sizes and textures. Birds are also good at hiding illness, so watch for signs such as fluffed-up feathers, hiding away, reduced activity, unusual quietness or refusing food. If anything seems out of character, seek veterinary advice promptly.” – Rachel

“Birds have significant needs when it comes to space, exercise and mental stimulation, so they aren't necessarily easy pets to keep in a domestic home. Small cages that prevent them from flying are unsuitable for long-term use; ideally, birds should have access to an aviary or at least six hours a day outside their cage to explore and stretch their wings. Parrots can be particularly demanding, thanks to their intelligence and need for regular attention and interaction. Without enough stimulation, they can become bored and stressed, sometimes developing behavioural problems such as feather plucking or self-mutilation. Their cage should be large enough to allow them to fully extend their wings, with plenty of room to move around. It's also worth finding a vet experienced in treating birds before bringing one home.” – David

Feeding & health

“Diet is crucial to a bird’s health, yet many are still fed a seed-only diet, which can lead to nutritional deficiencies and obesity. I recommend a balanced, species-specific diet, such as formulated pellets, supplemented with fresh vegetables and other suitable foods. Seeds can still be included, but should never be the sole source of nutrition.” – Dr Walter

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SMALL REPTILES

Equipment & housing

“Small reptiles are not low-maintenance pets. Replicating their natural habitat takes work, with the right set-up including heaters and UV lights (which need replacing periodically), as well as regular monitoring of temperature and humidity. Getting these conditions wrong is one of the most common causes of health problems.” – Rachel

“Each reptile species has specific environmental needs, particularly around temperature, humidity and UVB lighting. Getting these wrong can lead to serious, long-term health problems. Research your chosen species thoroughly and find a vet experienced in treating reptiles before bringing one home. It’s also worth thinking about longevity again – for example, arrangements for the future care of tortoises are sometimes included in people's wills as they can commonly outlive their owners.” – David

Feeding & health

“Reptiles such as lizards and geckos often eat crickets and other insects, which need to be properly prepared before feeding. This involves ‘gut loading’ – giving insects good-quality vitamins and minerals before feeding them to your reptile to ensure they provide the right nutrients. Tortoises, by comparison, need a varied diet of fresh leaves and vegetation to get the essential minerals and nutrients required for healthy growth and bone development. Home-grown leaves and edible weeds are preferable to shop-bought fruit and vegetables, and fresh water should always be available. It’s also important to provide the right environment, including UV light and a ceramic heat lamp” – Rachel

“Temperature, humidity and UVB lighting are all essential to reptile health – especially animals like tortoises, which are often a pet people are interested in having. As cold-blooded animals, reptiles rely on external heat to regulate their body temperature, which affects everything from digestion to metabolism. They need a temperature gradient that allows them to move between warmer and cooler areas, while appropriate UVB exposure supports vitamin D3 production and calcium absorption. Without it, they can develop metabolic bone disease, skeletal deformities and fractures. Humidity is equally important, as incorrect levels can cause dehydration, shedding difficulties and skin or respiratory problems.” – Dr Walter

SMALL RODENTS

Equipment & housing 

“Guinea-pigs, rats, mice and dwarf hamsters are sociable and generally prefer company, while Syrian hamsters are territorial and should be kept alone. Guinea-pigs need plenty of room to roam and places to hide, while hamsters require large enclosures with deep bedding for burrowing. Rats are natural climbers, so provide tunnels, hammocks, ladders and toys, rearranging them regularly to keep things interesting. Remember that rabbits and guinea-pigs should never be housed together, as their needs are very different. Lifespans also vary: hamsters, rats and mice typically live for two to three years, while guinea-pigs can live for four to eight.” – Rachel

“Guinea-pigs, rats and mice are sociable and generally enjoy company, while hamsters are mostly nocturnal and should usually be housed alone. Guinea-pigs should live with other guinea-pigs rather than rabbits, which can bully them. All need spacious accommodation with plenty of enrichment, including things to climb, hide in and chew. Hamsters also benefit from a sand bath, while guinea-pigs kept outdoors need protection from bad weather and predators. It's worth finding a vet experienced in treating your chosen species before bringing one home.” – David

Feeding & health

“Guinea-pigs need a constant supply of food to keep their digestive systems working properly, so refusing to eat is a serious cause for concern. Watch for changes in appetite, as well as toileting habits, blood in the urine or squeaking when urinating, which can indicate bladder problems or stones. Rats are also prone to respiratory issues, so keep an eye out for any changes in their health or behaviour.” – Rachel

“Each species has different dietary requirements, so research the right food for your chosen pet before bringing one home. Guinea-pigs, in particular, need a diet that supports their digestive health, while all small pets should have their nutritional needs met with species-appropriate food.” – David

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PIGS

Equipment & housing

“Pigs need plenty of outdoor space to root, explore and exhibit their natural behaviours, alongside a warm, comfortable shelter for sleeping. Their enclosure must be securely fenced, ideally using stock netting buried into the ground with a strand of electric fencing to prevent them pushing through or escaping. A deep straw bed will help keep them warm, while access to a mud wallow is essential, particularly in warmer weather. Pigs can't sweat, so they use mud to help regulate their body temperature and protect their skin from the sun. They're also naturally sociable animals and will benefit from being kept in pairs or small groups where possible. Although pigs are generally clean and can be housetrained, they love to root and disturb the ground, so owners should be prepared for some destructive behaviour. It's also worth considering just how large they can become: even so-called miniature or micropigs can reach 70kg, so it's important to think carefully about the space and practicalities involved before bringing one home.” – David

Feeding & health

“Pigs should be fed a proprietary pig food appropriate for their breed, with specialist options available for breeds such as Vietnamese Pot-Bellied Pigs and Kunekunes. Root vegetables and apples can be offered as occasional treats, but it's important to get their diet and portion sizes right from the outset, as pigs are particularly prone to obesity. A farm vet can advise on suitable food and weight management. Household kitchen scraps, table waste and catering waste must never be fed to pigs, even if entirely vegetarian, due to the risk of spreading serious infectious diseases, including swine fever. Beyond weight-related issues, pigs can suffer from skin conditions such as mange and lice, as well as sunburn, particularly in lighter-coloured animals. Those kept outdoors with access to soil are also susceptible to erysipelas, sometimes known as diamond skin disease, which can cause serious illness and may be fatal. Vaccination is available, so owners should speak to their vet about an appropriate preventative healthcare programme. It's also important to register with DEFRA and familiarise yourself with the regulations around keeping pigs, even when they're kept purely as pets.” – David

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