No. Fifty Cheyne
Fans of Chez Bruce and Medlar will rejoice at the reopening of No. Fifty Cheyne. One of those places locals remember fondly, the neighbourhood destination restaurant has been relaunched following a nine-month renovation by Sally Greene (founding director of the Old Vic Theatre and proprietor of Ronnie Scott’s jazz club) and we reckon it's Michelin-star quality. The kitchen is headed up by Iain Smith, previously head chef at Jason Atherton’s Social Eating House. Here, seasonal ingredients are the star, and modern British dishes are enhanced by a touch of fire from the open grill – our pick of the menu has to be the scallops with cabbage pesto and a chocolate fondant to rival them all. Upstairs you’ll find the relaxed Drawing Room and Ruby Red bar, which is led by Max Berrington, the man behind award-winning Copenhagen bar Brønnum. His ‘Pavilion Sour’ – a mix of Absolut Elyx, Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao, Lilet Rose, cranberry and lemon, scented with Roja Dove Enigma Pour Homme – was sensational. When it comes to interiors, picture a cosy but sophisticated setting filled with dreamy details: think striped banquettes and luxe curtains – just what you'd expect from a smart Chelsea home. There's nothing not to love about No. Fifty Cheyne, and whether you’re Chelsea local or otherwise, this one’s 100% worth a visit.
50 Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, SW3 5LR
Manu Canales, previously sous chef of Le Gavroche, has finally launched his ten-seater Kebab Queen project in Covent Garden. Canales has explored modern, European-influenced kebabs with Le Bab and Maison Bab. Now, after four years of development, he’s launched his most ambitious opening. At Kebab Queen, the kitchen encourages an uninhibited approach to dining: guests are invited to rip, tear and eat with their hands in a ritual that pays homage to late-night kebabs. Behind the illuminated facade of a classic British kebab shop, Canales plates each of the seven courses directly onto a bespoke, heated Dekton countertop. Such dishes include the ‘Foie Gras Kebabito’: a miniature, two-bite kebab of BBQ’d foie gras; a doner risotto: an intense lamb jus risotto finished with classic garnishes and shavings of lamb tongue; and chargrilled shish kebab of monkfish, monkfish liver and chicken skin plated onto a charred cabbage leaf. To finish, guests will delve into freshly baked sticky milk buns filled with caramelised cream and topped with crème fraiche sorbet. Diners their place at front row seats around the kitchen, perched on one of ten cobalt blue, leather-clad stools. Classic kebab shop-style stainless-steel walls are accentuated by pastel pink curtains and pink tiled concrete floor. Trust us, this is no ordinary late-night grub experience.
4 Mercer Walk, Covent Garden, WC2H 9FA
The team behind award-winning Catalan restaurant Rambla in Soho has opened a second spot in the City. Named Barullo – which translates as ‘hubbub’ or ‘commotion’ in Spanish, but colloquially means the moment of a party when the host gives up trying to keep order and the fun really kicks off – the lively 64-cover site is resplendent in blue and specialises in food from all over Spain, from classic tapas dishes to paella, as well as new dishes created by head chef and owner Victor Garvey. Of the lot, we’re most keen to try the roasted and pressed suckling pig served with salsa verde, kohlrabi and green apple slaw, and the giant sharing paella ‘La Masía’ – saffron calasparra rice, gambon giant prawns, confit pork belly and tail and fire-roasted piquillo peppers. Like what you hear? Keep an eye out for Garvey’s forthcoming new restaurant in Bar Jaleo, which is set to open in Soho later this year.
19 Bevis Marks, City, EC3A 7JA
Founded by Adolfo De Cecco (formerly head chef at acclaimed Hackney restaurant Pidgin), Casa Fofó is a small neighbourhood eatery with a focus on natural and low intervention wines, all served by the glass. An eclectic menu reflects Adolfo’s Italian heritage, as well as his close relationships with local, sustainable suppliers and a DIY approach: all charcuterie is made in house, the team crafts its own ratafia (an Italian fruit liqueur, served as a digestif) and the kitchen tends to its own herb garden. The six-course set menu (priced at £39pp) changes regularly and features considered dishes such as middle white pork neck with peanut, vivid choi, nori, rice and horseradish; or pine with sour cherry and popcorn. The restaurant’s minimalist interior is framed by its open kitchen, which encourages conversation between the chefs and the guests. Diners can choose to take a seat by the kitchen, at a communal table in the basement or, on sunnier days, in the garden. This is the spot to sample the restaurant’s elevated snack menu, available for those wanting a bite to accompany a glass of wine.
158 Sandringham Road, Dalston, E8 2HS
The Sea, The Sea
Alex Hunter, Bonnie Gull’s co-founder, is set to open a new venture on Chelsea’s Pavilion Road. Named after Iris Murdoch’s novel of the same name, The Sea, The Sea is set to be a modern fishmonger and deli by day, and a sit-in seafood and champagne bar by night. With skilled chefs working the shop floor to share their knowledge of cooking seafood, The Sea, The Sea will source the freshest, highest-quality fish and seafood from regional markets around the UK, supplying a diverse range of species including native lobster and langoustine, turbot and mackerel. While the focus will be on British day-boat catch, the shop will also supply occasional produce from overseas, such as carabinero prawns and red king crab. The space will transform into a chic dine-in format by night, where customers will have the chance to sit at the oyster bar and watch the chefs in action, including exec chef Leo Carreira, formerly of Londrino. Daily changing menus will be made up of the day’s catch and will include shellfish platters and small plates such as Cornish seabass crudo with crispy parsley sweet cicely and tender squid with pine nuts, sake and beach herbs. A carefully selected list of grower champagnes and wines will be available by the glass.
174 Pavilion Road, Chelsea, SW1X 0AW
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