A Foolproof Guide To Applying Eyebrow Make-Up

Start With A Good Cleanse

“This isn’t essential, but for well-shaped brows I recommend giving them a good cleanse first. I like to wipe a toner over them, allowing any exfoliants or fruit enzymes to remove any leftover product. Doing this gives you a clean, smooth surface so brow products will then adhere properly.” – Rachel Hardie, NARS national lead artist UK & ROI

Brush Up & Down

“I always start by brushing my brows up with a full bristle brush like the MYKITCO 2.3 Pro My Brushed Brow. This helps you to see what you’re working with, so you can make the best product choices. Brushing down is key, too – do this to see how the top line of hair looks and whether you need to do any filling or shaping there. If you can’t afford a set of specific tools, use a cheap spoolie – there are plenty on Amazon and in Boots. Doing this will also let you see whether any need a tiny trim.” – James Molloy, make-up artist 

Fill The Blanks

“When you’re ready to apply brow make-up, start by filling any gaps in your brows – wherever that may be – to give yourself a better understanding of the shape. Then, brush them down to fill along the top line of hair, before moving towards the lower line of brow. Soften the inner corners before ending at the tail of your brow. I like to use a pencil to do this. It gives you more control and it’s easier to perfect. Just make sure it’s sharp, as this will give you more of a natural brow stroke.” – James

Use Pomades & Powders 

“Once you’ve shaped your brows, go in with powder or pomade – whichever is your preference – to amp up the depth of your brow, or to define certain areas. Start at the middle and work towards the end of the brow. The middle is the heaviest point, so you can be a bit heavier-handed here. Then, use the remaining product and groom through the inner section of your brows. This will give them a softer, fluffier finish.” – Rachel

Seal Everything With Gel

“If you’re blessed with great natural brows, a gel may be enough on its own. If you’re looking to build more shape and volume, I recommend using a brow gel – or a waxy soap – after pomades or powders. They groom the hairs and seal everything into place. Just make sure you use them to groom the hairs in all directions so you get an even blend. Once this is done, you’ll find they lay flat and stay put for longer.” – James 

Treat Sparseness Differently 

“As mentioned, those with naturally bushy brows will take a different approach to those with more sparseness. If you have the latter, it helps to build texture and dimension with multiple products. You can use the pencil to mimic hair-like strokes, but I prefer powder for those who are fair or prone to patchiness. Powders act as a great base tone and you can use them to build your desired shape before tweaking the overall look with other products.”  – Rachel

“A pomade is great for sparseness, too. They are pigmented gels that are easy to work with and give great definition and colour. You are best off applying them with a very fine brush as you can create texture and fullness easily.” – James

Get Your Shades Right

“When shopping for brow shades, you should mostly choose cool tones. If you have fair hair, you can afford to go a couple of shades darker. If you already have dark hair, try ashy, lighter tones. Redheads can usually wear both cool and warm tones, so it would come down to personal preference.” – Rachel

“The only product that’s different is a gel – for this, you should try to match your exact brow shade or go darker by one tone because gels are far sheerer than other products, so you can afford to go a bit darker.” – James

Finally, Adopt These Hacks 

“Soaps and gels can seal brows in place but, for extra hold, mist a spoolie with a touch of hairspray and run it through your arches. This is particularly useful to do throughout the day if your brows are losing shape. Finally, if you’re scared of creating a heavy brow shape, use a minimal amount of concealer to carve out your shape before you apply any brow product. This gives you a great guide to follow – just use the tiniest amount with a very finely tipped brush.” – Rachel

For more beauty tips & tutorials, follow @JamesMolloyMakeUpArtist & @RachelHardie.Artistry