A Pocket Guide To Marseille

You might have noticed Marseille getting a lot of air time on your social feeds over the last year, which is partly thanks to a string of chefs who have upped sticks and moved (or moved back) to the bohemian coastal city. 

Start with a pitstop at Deep Coffee near the port, which serves excellent specialty coffee as well as more interesting drinks, like pumpkin seed lattes, and sweets like matcha baklava and triple chocolate cookies. Ferments Bakery on Rue de Lodi is also worth a visit in the morning for its freshly baked pastries, bread and patisserie treats. Then there’s  Petrin Couchette, a bakery and café near the old port where you can buy savoury pastries and pies, focaccia sandwiches and cakes with coffee and fresh juices. If you're after something more substantial, head to Cecile Food Club, one of the most popular spots in the city where you’ll find fresh baguette sandwiches and Mediterranean dishes to take away and enjoy on the rocks at the nearby beach. 

For relaxed dinners, there are plenty of bistros and more contemporary restaurants to know. Book a table at Limmat, a small restaurant on the colourful staircase of Cours Julien where diners can sit on the ground floor in front of the open kitchen or in the main dining room upstairs. Chef Lilian Gadola serves locally caught seafood and veggie dishes each day, alongside hearty French desserts. Another top choice is La Mercerie, an acclaimed restaurant headed up by three of the city’s most interesting foodies. Book in for the ‘surprise’ five-course set menu for €65 or sit at the bar to try inventive plates from its daily changing menu. 

For something a little more casual, Ivresse is a lovely natural wine bar which has a small menu of seasonal dishes, while Mercato X Winesucker is a cool wine shop where you can try veg-centric plates. It’s the perfect spot for a late afternoon glass of burgundy or chablis. Finally, Le Cabanon de Paulette on the beach is not to be missed. Visit for sundowners, tapas-style plates and relaxed tunes. 

The city might be the second largest in France, but most attractions are easy to get to by foot, bus or the simple two-line Metro system. The moment you arrive, you’ll be struck by the imposing hilltop Notre-Dame de la Garde cathedral, which overlooks the city and coastline. Trust us, it’s worth the trek. Down in the recently reconfigured Vieux-Port, make sure to stop by MuCEM, a strikingly designed museum, complete with a roof terrace, communal gardens and a top restaurant from Gérald Passedat, the same chef behind Le Petit Nice. The south of France is known for the striking architecture of modernist Le Corbusier and Marseille is no different. In fact, his masterpiece – futuristic housing project La Cité Radieuse – now houses MAMO, a modern art gallery with far-reaching views and a hotel beneath, complete with a wine bar and swimming pool. 

Walking along the old port is another great way to spend an afternoon in Marseille. But you can also drive or take the bus to Calanques National Park, where you’ll find islands, caves and beaches. From the bus stop, it’s a 45-minute hike through a forest and down winding cliffs to the water. Remember to pack a picnic and (if warm enough) your swimsuit, as this is a natural wonder and there are no shops or restaurants. For somewhere in the city itself, head to the much-busier Catalan Beach, which offers sand – rather than the rocks of Les Calanques – and plenty of places for post-swim refreshments. If you want to extend your stay, there’s an array of great day-trip options from central Marseille – Van Gogh’s residence in Arles, the picture-perfect streets of Aix-en-Provence and art-filled Avignon are all an easy drive or accessible by bus. 

The flight time is about two hours from London and you can buy affordable return flights via easyJet and Ryanair. Shuttle buses will then get you from the airport to the city centre in just 30 minutes. It’s also possible to get the Eurostar to Marseille (with a change in Paris or Lille), which takes six-and-a-half hours. Average summer temperatures peak around 29°C, but the spring months are more comfortable.