An Insider’s Guide To Eating & Drinking In Brighton & Hove
David Charbitt
FOR SOMETHING NEW...
Furna
Furna is the first solo venture from Yorkshire-born Dave Mothersill, who has been cooking in some of Brighton’s most acclaimed restaurants for over two decades and is one of the city’s most well-respected chefs. With the help of a talented team, this new fine-dining hotspot showcases the best of Sussex produce with a regularly rotated tasting menu. Atmospheric interiors feature furniture made from reclaimed wood found in Brighton, there’s counter seating overlooking the open kitchen, plus a lovely private dining room at the back of the restaurant and a wine cellar with an extensive selection of world and low-intervention wines. While the interiors are impressive, it’s the menu that really captures the imagination. Delicate-looking dishes packing massive flavour include the likes of Orkney scallop with Yorkshire rhubarb, lardo and white asparagus; Cornish cod with leeks, apple, devilled brown shrimp and Exmoor caviar; and Verjus meringue with carrot cake and sour cream.
6 New Road, Brighton, BN1 1UF
Visit FurnaRestaurant.co.uk
Tutto
Tutto is the newest spot from Brighton restaurateur Razak Helalat (the man behind Burnt Orange, The Salt Room and The Coal Shed). Here the ethos is to give simple, seasonal ingredients centre stage. In lovely surroundings – the venue is a 1930s bank, restored and fitted with stripy awnings outside and bold artwork inside – guests can expect fairly priced sharing plates of Italian classics such as anchovies with tomatoes and roasted chilli oil; tenderstem fritto with pecorino and lemon; grilled sardines with fried bread and smoked cod’s roe; or a lovely-as-it-sounds bowl of cacio e pepe with hazelnuts, along with refreshing serves from the bar’s summer-ready negroni and spritz menus.
22 Marlborough Place, Brighton, BN1 1UB
Visit Tutto-Restaurant.co.uk
Embers
Brighton chefs Dave Marrow and Isaac Bartlett-Copeland have joined forces to open Embers, a new restaurant celebrating Sussex produce, cooked over wood fire. In Brighton’s atmospheric Lanes, the menu is focused on creating bold flavours from locally grown ingredients, cooked entirely on a medieval wood-fire cage over embers in the centre of the restaurant. Having cooked in some of Brighton’s best kitchens, including Terre à Terre and Isaac At, the chefs’ joint endeavour is built around a short list of tasty flame-licked dishes designed for sharing. These could include glazed lamb ribs with candied ginger, kimchi and furikake; a moreish smoky chicken leg with crispy skin, ’nduja aioli and honey butter (as great as it sounds); melt-in-the-mouth wagyu Denver steak with roscoff onion and coffee hollandaise; and twists on classic puddings such as banana split with parsnip and rosemary ice-cream, toffee sauce and praline (also as great as it sounds). The cocktail list is also excellent – we love the Brighton Bee Balm, made with Lillet Blanc, Brighton Gin, Italicus and sea salt.
42 Meeting House Lane, Brighton, BN1 1HB
Visit EmbersBrighton.co.uk
Bison Beer Beach Bar + Fika On The Beach
Undoubtedly Brighton’s biggest opening this summer, Sea Lanes is a heated, open-air swimming pool right on the beach. As part of the area’s redevelopment, local legends Bison Beer are back with a new bar in the same spot that hosted a very popular al fresco pop-up during the pandemic. It’s got a huge range of craft beer from around the world but takes a keen interest in the Sussex beer scene. With some of the best sunset views around (the rooftop bar is the place to be), it’s the perfect place to try one of Bison’s own See Side APAs. If beer’s not your thing, the bar has prosecco and cocktails on tap, as well as a decent gin menu. Street food by Humble Plates spans pizzas to smoked tofu and truffle fries – and right next door you’ll find Fika, which makes the best breakfast sandwiches in town (my regular order is the Ton Bacon, filled with a fried egg, streaky smoked bacon, smoked cheese and tonkasu sauce).
299 Madeira Drive, Brighton, BN2 1EN
Visit BisonBeer.co.uk
david charbit
FOR SEA VIEWS...
Due South
Due South first opened under the arches on Brighton beach in 2004, with the same team as famed fish restaurant Riddle & Finns. It reopened in 2021 and fast became an excellent addition to the city’s dining scene. Led by head chef Mark Wadsworth, it focuses on wild food cooked over fire. From nose to tail and root to stalk, Mark uses every part of his ingredients, which are sourced from independent Sussex farms and fisherman. Menu hits include lobster crumpets with caviar salt (you read that right); wood-fired sourdough with lardo and garlic butter; oysters with gherkin granita, crème fraiche, cucumber and dill; Brighton scallops with chive oil and buttermilk; and – best of all – wood-fired cheesecake. A must-book.
139 Kings Road Arches, Brighton, BN1 2FN
Visit DueSouthRestaurant.co.uk
Shelter Hall
Whenever I need a large, fun spot for a group of friends or those with children, I book a table at Shelter Hall. Housed in a converted Victorian building right on the seafront, the venue is home to several of Sussex’s most exciting chefs, who’ve each launched a new food concept: think pizzas from Amalfi by the same team behind VIP, Patty Guy by MasterChef winner Kenny Tutt, and great fish and chips from Rybka, which also has a proper chippy on Meeting House Lane. Shelter Hall has a huge al fresco terrace, plus a large programme of live sessions and DJs. Right now, Ivan Orkin – otherwise known as Michelin-starred Ivan Ramen – has a ramen pop-up. Mazemen is a broth-less ramen which has been a staple at Ivan’s Tokyo and NYC outposts. His must-try menu includes triple chicken triple garlic mazemen (fresh garlic, roasted garlic, garlic oil, paitan broth and chicken), and cold sesame noodles (chilled szechuan chicken, roasted peppers, preserved chilli and coriander). The former is so good, I've been back three times to have it.
Kings Road Arches, Brighton, BN1 1NB
Visit ShelterHall.co.uk
Rockwater Hove
Along the seafront, towards Hove, you’ll find Rockwater, a bar and restaurant right on the beach. Its plant-laden roof terrace is a welcome addition to the long stretch of seafront and is open on a walk-in basis for all-day dining and sea views, with a retractable roof that allows for unpredictable weather. Designed with long summer afternoons in mind, this is the place to head for locally sourced food such as seafood platters and charcuterie boards, along with a decent selection of cocktails, wine and beer. Inside, you’ll find a stylish, mid-century-inspired restaurant, bar and event space, where yoga classes, workshops and live music take place throughout the week.
Western Esplanade, Hove, BN3 4FA
Visit Rockwater.uk
Murmur
In one of the arches on Brighton seafront, Murmur overlooks the iconic ruins of the West Pier. The sister restaurant to the award-winning 64 Degrees – more on that later – Murmur was opened by Great British Menu winner Michael Bremner in 2016. Here, he serves local seafood – such as jerk monkfish tail and lobster croquettes – for lunch and dinner in a bright beachside location. The child-friendly restaurant offers further seats on the terrace, which overlooks the beach, making it an immensely popular place in the summer months.
91-96 Kings Road Arches, Brighton, BN1 2FN
Visit Murmur-Restaurant.com
Brighton Beach House
After years of hype and rumours, Soho House finally opened its Brighton outpost last year. Perched on the seafront, Brighton Beach House includes a pool terrace with sea views and a pool mosaic rumoured to be designed by local resident David Shrigley; ground-floor events space; a club space with a bar and kitchen; the group’s signature Club Cecconi’s – a members-only restaurant serving northern Italian dishes – and best of all, the Brighton Beach Lofts, a collection of five lofts centred around a modular open-plan kitchen and lounge area, with private access to a sea-facing terrace. Good news for out-of-towners – a collection of bedrooms is in the works. For summer 2023, the venue has teamed up with Riddle & Finns for a seafood pop-up focused on oysters, lobster rolls and fruits de mer platters.
Madeira Drive, Brighton, BN2 1AY
Visit SohoHouse.com
Marrocco’s
Launched by Renato Marrocco and his wife Maria in 1969, this authentic Italian restaurant and ice-cream parlour has stood the test of time. The Marrocco family continues to run the place today, and queues down the seafront are still the norm. While the restaurant is a useful place for low-key family lunches – I always order a the penne amatriciana – it’s worth stopping by just for a scoop or two of its gelato, with flavours spanning the likes of apple crumble, carrot cake and classic pistachio.
8 King's Esplanade, Hove, BN3 2WA
Visit Marroccos.co.uk
Madison Phipps
FOR CASUAL DINING...
Bincho Yakitori
Busy, restaurant-laden Preston Street’s award-winning Bincho Yakitori is an ‘izakaya’ – a modern, Japanese drinking den. Run by a Japanese team, the menu is printed every week and specials are drawn up daily. Here, food is for sharing, is cooked as it is ordered and is served when it’s ready. There are no starters or main courses, rather Asian small plates, mostly grilled over natural fire. We like to order multiple portions of the chicken karage – it’s up there with the city’s best dishes.
63 Preston Street, Brighton, BN1 2HE
Visit BinchoYakitori.com
The Flint House
From the same team behind The Ginger Pig and The Gingerman, The Flint House is tucked among some of the coolest boutiques and galleries of the Lanes. The relative newcomer offers counter-level dining and small plates with beautiful Sussex wines by the glass, a first-floor cocktail bar and an in-demand rooftop terrace. Guests can choose from the likes of sweetcorn fritters with jalapeno mayo; pea and ricotta agnolotti with confit onions and summer truffle; or tomato salad with smoked tomato dressing with goats’ curd and crispy capers. When it comes to puddings, don’t miss the doughnut with banana custard, salted caramel and peanuts; or blue cheese crumpet with honey.
13 Hanningtons Lane, Brighton, BN1 1GS
Visit FlintHouseBrighton.com
Plateau
Plateau focuses on natural wine and inventive sharing plates. Sustainability informs everything the team does – from the menu to the wine list and cocktails. The menu changes daily based on what is available from local day boats, game hunters, butchers and foragers, and is designed around the idea of sharing. Perfect for groups or couples, this buzzy spot hits the mark whether you’re after a few snacks to accompany a glass of wine or a full-on feast.
1 Bartholomews, Brighton, BN1 1HG
Visit PlateauBrighton.co.uk
Cin Cin
Cin Cin started life as a street-food truck before flowering into an award-winning 20-seat restaurant in Brighton. Today, the restaurant is based in Hove, plus there’s a newer site in Fitzrovia. The shiny Hove spot is much bigger than the Brighton original and has al fresco dining space. The team serves seasonal small plates and aperitivi, plus handmade pasta and wines from across Italy. Make sure to kick things off with a Lemon Drop Martini, made with Malfy gin, Cointreau and lemon.
60 Western Road, Hove, BN3 1JD
Visit CinCin.co.uk
Burnt Orange
Burnt Orange is a grown-up, late-night hangout, which – alongside dinner and drinks – offers a curated music programme from local legend Fatboy Slim. The menu is centred around seasonal ingredients cooked predominantly over fire and designed for sharing, including crab and samphire fritters with brown crab tahini and nigella salt; smoked stone bass crudo with lettuce, pistachios and lime; and octopus with harissa truffle butter. In a 16th-century coach house with many original features still intact, this is an inviting space for lively dinners and comes with a pretty courtyard terrace for drinking and al fresco dining.
59 Middle Street, Brighton, BN1 1AL
Visit Burnt-Orange.co.uk
Curry Leaf Café
Curry Leaf Café was launched in 2014 with the goal of providing a relaxed, colourful space where diners could explore authentic South Indian food alongside a wide range of craft beers that complement the flavours of the region. The restaurant offers a range of snacks and traditional street food during the day, as well as more substantial meals such as thali platters, dosas and tandoor naan wraps. In the evenings, diners visit the café to experience its small but diverse menu of tandoor-grilled specialities, street food and expertly spiced curries.
60 Ship Street, Brighton, BN1 1AE
Visit CurryLeafCafe.com
O’shio
O’shio is owned and run by Korean-trained and Japanese-qualified chef Min. Having spent years honing his skills in the restaurants of Korea, Japan, London and Brighton, he opened this casual spot in Brighton’s North Laine in 2016. Fusing the purity of Japanese ingredients with the heat of Korean cuisine, this is an atmospheric spot where guests can revel in Asian flavours. From Min’s wife’s homemade kimchi to Korean soju and Japanese sake, the restaurant offers an authentic dining experience – and it’s the perfect place to try something new.
87-88 Trafalgar Street, Brighton, BN1 4ER
Visit Oshio.co.uk
James French
Kindling
This restaurant is about more than just food: the team behind Kindling all share a passion for local suppliers, minimal waste and quality service. In its bright, stylish space, guests can tuck into the likes of grilled Sussex asparagus with hazelnuts, brown butter and Duddleswell cheese; or BBQ artichoke with panisse, Nutbourne tomatoes, goats’ curd and pine nuts; followed by chocolate, almond and olive oil cake with fig leaf ice-cream. A great spot if you’re looking for somewhere central.
69 East Street, Brighton, BN1 1HQ
Visit KindlingRestaurant.com
The Pond
The Pond is an independent pub in Brighton's North Laine serving up delicious beer from all over the world, including its very own Pondwater Pale Ale. When it comes to food, this cosy boozer plays host to Taiwanese steamed-bun purveyors Baby Bao. On Mondays the menu goes completely meat-free, and dishes change with the seasons. On Sundays, we like to tuck into its sharing Sunday roast baos, where you can fill buns with roasted meats and try excellent side dishes.
49 Gloucester Road, Brighton, BN1 4AQ
Visit ThePondBrighton.com
FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS...
Etch
Etch is a 12-table, tasting menu-only restaurant by MasterChef: The Professionals winner Steven Edwards. Previously a bank, the restaurant is a smart spot complete with dark-blue walls, smatterings of modern art and views into the open kitchen and bar. The philosophy behind Etch is to celebrate local and British produce using monthly changing tasting menus. Offering a choice of five, seven or nine courses, menus are created using two main ingredients per dish: think croissants with Valrhona Alpaco 66% dark chocolate; and lobster with peas. Thankfully one dish always remains – the extremely moreish Marmite bread with seabutter butter to start.
216 Church Road, Hove, BN3 2DJ
Visit EtchFood.co.uk
The Set
I've been a massive fan of The Set for years. The restaurant started its journey as a Halloween pop-up in 2014. It evolved into a highly regarded bricks-and-mortar establishment in the Artist Residence hotel on the seafront, before moving to Preston Park post-pandemic, keeping its relaxed vision and focus on local produce. When it first opened, the kitchen served three three-course set menus. Now, it serves one 14 to 20-course dinner to 12 diners per night in one sitting, offering a similarly inventive selection of dishes – imagine milk bread and cheeseburger butter; and cod with bisque.
50 Preston Road, Brighton, BN1 4QF
Visit TheSetRestaurant.com
Riddle & Finns
Riddle & Finns is a household name in Brighton and much loved for its quality local seafood and champagne. Taking inspiration from the high-end liquor shops and oyster bars of New York and Paris, it delivers an impressive culinary experience. Whether you're looking for a bowl of chowder and a glass of wine or 24 freshly shucked oysters and a vintage champagne, the kitchen caters for every occasion. In the original Lanes oyster bar, you’ll find yourself seated side by side and lit by candlelight, while its newer beachside restaurant features an al fresco terrace and almost unrivalled views of the sea.
12b Meeting House Lane, Brighton, BN1 1HB & 65 Kings Road, Brighton, BN1 1NA
Visit RiddleAndFinns.co.uk
64 Degrees
Tucked away in the Lanes, 64 Degrees is an intimate restaurant with a great reputation. Every year since opening the kitchen has been awarded a Bib Gourmand by Michelin. Its passionate chefs concoct an evolving menu of small plates using fresh, local produce – the main feature is the open-kitchen where diners are encouraged to sit at the pass and watch the food be prepared right in front of them. Although the set menu changes constantly, expect to sample the likes of cod loin with shrimp and dashi; lemon sole with crackling, olive, courgette and parmesan; and cherries with almonds and burnt honey.
53 Meeting House Lane, Brighton, BN1 1HB
Visit 64Degrees.co.uk
The Coal Shed
The Coal Shed is a steak-focused restaurant in the centre of Brighton which celebrates the art of cooking over coals. The concept is simple: the highest quality ingredients, sourced as locally as possible, expertly cooked over fire. In 2017, the team launched The Coal Shed in London Bridge. However, this glossy original still hits the mark with its seasonal à la carte menu, great-value express lunch and its ginormous Sunday sharing roast. Highlights from the menu include smoked Old Spot pork belly with black vinegar glaze and apple and radish slaw; its Cornish crab on toast with crab XO; and flamed sea bream with chorizo-fried barley and grilled squid. Perfect for date night.
8 Boyce's Street, Brighton, BN1 1AN
The Chilli Pickle
Inspired by owners Dawn and Alun’s Indian travels – from the tropics of Tamil Nadu and Kerala to the wetlands of West Bengal and Rajasthani desert plains – The Chilli Pickle is vibrant and big flavoured in every way. Since opening in 2008 and expanding to its current site at Jubilee Street in 2010, the restaurant has become something of a Brighton institution. Here, lunch focuses on light bites, kebabs, salads and street food with thalis showcasing India with a kaleidoscope of flavours. Dinner offers a sharing experience with regional curries such as peanut aubergine and Chennai monkfish and mussels, alongside BBQ-ed sea bream and masala prawns. Yes, it’s pricier than your average Indian, but it’s also some of the most exciting Indian food you’ll try in the UK.
17 Jubilee Street, Brighton, BN1 1GE
Visit TheChilliPickle.com
Isaac At
The team at Isaac At is a group of close friends, who share the same passion when it comes to serving seasonal local ingredients found on the south coast. Sourcing all its ingredients from Brighton and the surrounding area, it was the first restaurant in the UK to serve an all-English wine list. Since opening in 2015, Isaac At has picked up numerous awards – once you’ve tried its seven-course tasting menu, which currently features scallop, smoked ham and egg yolk, followed by plaice with foraged seaweed and sea herbs, you’ll realise why.
2 Gloucester Street, Brighton, BN1 4EW
Visit Isaac-At.com
The Little Fish Market
The Little Fish Market is owned and run by Duncan Ray. As its name suggests, the restaurant’s focus is on cooking the freshest, highest-quality sustainable seafood from the British Isles: think Thai langoustines served two ways, Orkney scallops and grilled turbot. Each service has space for just 20 diners, and everyone is served a set tasting menu, which changes every four to six weeks. An accompanying wine selection is curated by Keeling and Andrew from London’s Noble Rot. Warning: this place is always booked up, so make sure you secure a table before you travel.
10 Upper Market Street, Hove, BN3 1AS
Wild Flor
Founded in 2019, Wild Flor is an award-winning neighbourhood restaurant in Hove offering lunch, dinner and private dining. It’s run by a small team, owned and operated by its founders James and Faye Thomson and Rob Maynard, with the kitchen headed up by Ali Munro. Together they source the best produce around, all served with an excellent selection of wines and cocktails (I loved the Corn ’n’ Oil – Doorly's 5-year-old rum with velvet falernum and fresh lime). The menu is a good old-fashioned à la carte offering complete with snacks, starters, main courses and desserts, with current highlights including pea cavatelli with asparagus, courgette and BBQ aubergine; haggis arancini with pickled walnut condiment; and pollock with pickled grape, celery, crab and sauce armoricaine.
42 Church Road, Hove, BN3 2FN
Visit WildFlor.com
FOR RELAXED LUNCHES, BRUNCHES & COFFEE...
Oeuf
This Instagram-worthy spot is on picturesque Third Avenue in Hove. Close to the seafront, with outside seating both out front and in its ‘secret’ garden, Oeuf is a great spot for breakfast and brunch. On the menu, must-tries include the kitchen’s ‘frumpets’ (French toast crumpets) filled with either melt-in-the-middle cheese and bacon, banana and caramel or berry compote with coconut yoghurt, alongside seasonal specials such as fresh crab on sourdough with brown butter sauce and poached eggs. Cocktails such as hibiscus margarita and the ‘Hangover Killer’ (prosecco, chilli and pineapple) all help to kickstart any celebrations you might be hosting.
8 Third Avenue, Hove, BN3 2PX
Visit Oeuf.Cafe
Marmalade
Over in Kemptown, Marmalade is one of the very best places to eat breakfast or have a leisurely lunch at the weekend. Set up by one of the co-founders of Bill’s, Marmalade is a standalone cafe which offers excellent coffee, superlative salads and must-order cakes and pastries. The kitchen rustles great breakfast sandwiches, and – if you get there early enough – a fantastic selection of salads, quiche and ever-changing hot dishes. Selling ready meals such as truffled mac ‘n’ cheese and deli essentials, it’s an ideal spot to grab a coffee ahead of a seafront stroll.
237 Eastern Road, Brighton, BN2 5JJ
Visit CafeMarmalade.co.uk
The Flour Pot
The Flour Pot is a modern British bakery committed to all things artisanal. As well as great coffee, the bakery serves freshly baked pork and fennel sausage rolls, traditional croques, vegan rolls and huge selection of sandwiches – there’s a reason there’s always a queue out the door come lunchtime. True to its community spirit, the team has collaborated with independent local florist Matt Gunn at its site on Portland Road, creating a flower-filled Insta-friendly destination in which to sip coffee, while its seafront location has branched out to serve brunch, baked sourdough pizzas and sharing plates.
Various locations
Visit TheFlourPot.co.uk
The Open Bakery
The Open Bakery is a local family business in Kemptown, operated by a team who have been baking in Brighton since 1997. The shop used to be part of the Real Patisserie, a range of premium patisseries in town, but recently changed its name to The Open Bakery to reflect its expansion into baking and cookery classes. Absolutely everything sold is baked or prepared fresh on the day within the shop. As well as the bakery on the shop floor, work goes on downstairs in the patisserie where they bake fresh pastries and cakes, plus biscuits, jams and seasonal treats like Easter eggs and Christmas cakes.
34 St George's Road, Brighton, BN2 1ED
Visit OpenBakery.com
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