A Restaurant Worth Travelling To: Osip, Bruton
THE CONCEPT
Merlin Labron-Johnson is the man behind Michelin-starred Osip, which we first knew as a small farm-to-table restaurant on the high street of the pretty and now – almost thanks to Merlin alone – phenomenally popular Somerset town of Bruton. Last year, Merlin moved Osip to a refurbished 18th-century inn ten minutes down the road and out into the country. Its bones might be old but the new place feels light, contemporary and minimalist, with an open kitchen that’s wrapped in glass to maximise views into the restaurant garden and the fields beyond.
Perhaps it was a garden such as this – resplendent in wildflowers when I visited – that lured Merlin back to the south west (he grew up in Devon) after he won a Michelin star in London aged only 24. That was for Portland in Fitzrovia in 2015. The next year, he opened the lovely Clipstone nearby. They’re both still going, but in 2019 Merlin was offered the keys to the restaurant space below gorgeous boutique hotel Number One Bruton. Months after it opened, the pandemic hit, so Merlin and his team ploughed their efforts into growing and harvesting in its walled garden and orchard. The results were so bountiful, there wasn’t enough space to handle all the produce in the kitchen, so Osip was reborn in the former coach house it now occupies.
THE SETTING
In a 300-year-old building, Osip 2.0 is a vision of white-washed textures and backdrops that allow the views and food to shine. Among the crisp white tablecloths and neutral palettes, there are contemporary artworks and crafts that nod to the landscapes (I loved the paintings by Christopher Le Brun), modern ceramics by Anna Karin and Colette Woods, metalwork such as curtain rails and candleholders by designer Andrew Pierce Scott, and natural elements that draw the eye: a billowing linen curtain that danced in the breeze, huge vases of cows parsley that framed the windows, and stylishly stacked logs that delineated some of the dining areas.
As you take your seat, it’s still the kitchen itself that grabs your attention. In a modern glass cube extension, the kitchen is the centre of the restaurant, but its transparency gives guests long-range views across Somerset. There’s an angular skylight that throws focus onto those at the pans – Merlin, when we were there – and highlights how the cooking comes together softly and intentionally. There’s no loud pot banging or yelling to each other across the stoves here. It’s a calm, serene atmosphere that percolates out into the rest of the restaurant. Ideal if, like us, you got caught in traffic and arrived late, flustered and furrow-browed.
THE FOOD
As you’d expect from a restaurant that grows a lot of its own produce, dishes change from service to service. The menu is planned so precisely each day that it’s printed during service and delivered after each meal. Going into the meal, we’re told only the essence of each course, not the ingredients. One is a signature dish of raw vegetables, which have been beautifully cleaned but are otherwise in their natural state – it was mange tout and two types of radishes for us. They come with a beautiful, whipped sesame dip with an artful well of vibrantly green oil in its centre, which matches the mossy orb of oil in my preserved tomato martini. The green theme continues with a lovage broth course and then another signature, the spring taco. A wonderful, fermented potato brioche is served with deliciously sour kefir butter with leek tapenade and a picture-perfect fried nettle leaf that almost looks too good to eat. The genius palate cleanser between the main and pudding courses was another favourite: rocket sorbet with gooseberry and pistachio.
As a low-waste operation with a Green Michelin star, Osip is a low-meat restaurant – not that you miss its presence. Pork enters the conversation on our sixth course: black pig with grilled nettles and asparagus, Toulouse sausage, and pig’s head lettuce wraps, which manages to be both dainty and powerful.
On the drinks front, wines are from small-scale, sustainable growers, and are wonderfully paired to accompany the food – I loved the Sicilian note di bianco with the delicate stream farm trout, young leeks, sorrel and hazelnuts. The sommelier and kitchen have also worked together to produce a collection of non-alcoholic drinks featuring blends of fruits, ferments and teas. An aperitif of mustard leaves, lemon balm and pear was as refreshing as any pre-lunch livener I’ve had. A beetroot, black garlic and long pepper concoction that mimicked the mouthfeel of a bold red wine paired perfectly with the pork dish. And the pine cone, verjus and Malawian white tea creation that arrived with the crème-fraiche ice-cream pollen and mead confirmed that non-drinkers and designated drivers won’t ever feel like they’re missing out.
/https%3A%2F%2Fsheerluxe.com%2Fsites%2Fsheerluxe%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F06%2Fsl-osip-kitchen-fb-cred-dave-watts.jpg?itok=yfRY433Z)
THE VERDICT
This is a special place. Like lots of restaurants of this calibre, the pacing is perfect. We began with snacks and a welcome drink in the light-filled lounge before being taken through to the restaurant for most of the meal. The guest experience of walking from a cosy, low-beamed space into the brightness of the modern, open kitchen adds gentle drama. Each table is bathed in a perfectly spherical spotlight which makes every course sing. The experience is rounded off back in the lounge with petit-fours, coffee and a choice of digestif from a laden drinks trolley. The three acts give a meal here a sense of movement.
We knew the food would be flawless. But the warmth and charm of the space and the service lifted our lunch into ‘incredible’ territory. Back to that late arrival: from the off, the team were friendly and relaxed about it. One quick word and smile from Merlin telling us not to feel stressed as he brought over that perfect plate of vegetables evaporated any residual tension, our shoulders dropped and the rest of the meal was leisurely and full of awed laughter and appreciative silences – as all good lunches should be. Long before the spectacular burnt honey tarts arrived at the end of the meal, we were already plotting an autumn return to see how a different season’s bounty would be prepared; in the car home, texts were sent to friends in the throes of plotting big birthday getaways; and I made a note to cook with more lovage at home. In my book, there’s almost no higher praise.
WHERE TO STAY
Launched earlier this month, there are now four five-star-hotel-worthy bedrooms directly above the restaurant. Each named after a river in Somerset – Avon, Brue, Somer and Pitt – the rooms exude the same luxe minimalism as downstairs, with handcrafted finishes that connect guests to the West Country landscape. Guests will be welcomed with refreshments from the kitchen, cider by Maison Osip – the restaurant’s product line – and Maison Osip toiletries, made in collaboration with Harvest skincare, while the Osip Concierge is on hand to arrange complimentary transfers.
As part of a stay, breakfast inspired by old French auberges is served down in the restaurant. You might begin with black cardamom buns, granola, yoghurt, honey from Osip’s bees and seasonal jams, all served on the table on arrival. You can then help yourself to a spread including hay-smoked trout, honey-roast ham, local cheeses, boiled eggs and a butter mountain (hello) – alongside tea, coffee and fresh apple and sorrel juices.
/https%3A%2F%2Fsheerluxe.com%2Fsites%2Fsheerluxe%2Ffiles%2Farticles%2F2025%2F06%2Fsl-osip-the-bathroom-credit-dave-watts.jpg?itok=qU5epHg2)
HOW TO GET THERE
Trains from London Paddington to Bruton take just under two hours; Bruton train station is then a five-minute drive away. From Paddington, trains to Castle Cary are 1 hour 40 minutes, with a 15-minute taxi at the other end. If you’re driving from London, expect the journey to take around three hours.
25 Kingsettle Hill, Hardway, Bruton, Somerset, BA10 0LN
Visit OSIPRESTAURANT.COM
DISCLAIMER: We endeavour to always credit the correct original source of every image we use. If you think a credit may be incorrect, please contact us at info@sheerluxe.com.
/https%3A%2F%2Fsheerluxe.com%2Fsites%2Fsheerluxe%2Ffiles%2Fwebsite-images%2F2025%2F03%2Fsign-up-pop-up.jpg?itok=zlMvamfa)
