Your Guide To Couture Fashion Week
THE SHOWS
DAVID FISHER/SHUTTERSTOCK
Alexander Vauthier
Despite this being a spring/summer collection, Alexander Vauthier debuted a range of faux furs, tailored jackets, velvet and lots of sparkle – with minidresses and voluminous silhouettes dominating heavily. Albeit clearly a nod to the brand’s increasingly global customer base (who find themselves in different time zones and climates throughout the year), the designer would not be drawn on who he’s potentially dressing this awards season. Past regulars have included Cate Blanchett, Janelle Monáe and Kate Hudson.
Chanel
Virginie Viard took inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel’s iconic Parisian apartment for her couture collection, where she joined forces with artist Xavier Veilhan. True to form, Chanel took a more wearable approach to couture, with models showing off feminine, floating gowns adorned with soft ruffles, lace and sheer fabrics. Bows ties and ballet flats were the perfect finishing touches.
Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri took her inspiration from the roaring 20s and specifically Joséphine Baker – the iconic African-American singer and dancer. Seeing her as a glamorous icon and an embodiment of the era – not to mention representative of the transgression of stereotypes and prejudices – Grazia Churi ran with these references and mixes of cultures to come up with a collection of pieces that women would genuinely wear. No wonder the silhouettes felt so modern and flattering.
DAVID FISHER/SHUTTERSTOCK
Elie Saab
Nothing short of opulent, Elie Saab’s couture show was dripping in embellishments, embroideries, crystals and pearls. The forever-maximalist is dream to watch in action – we loved his beautifully crafted trains and capes, snug silhouettes and unique detailing, as well as the spring colour scheme of pale pinks, blues and mauves.
Georges Hobeika
Feathers, ruffles, embellishments, sparkles – all of them were in full force at Georges Hobeika. The designer played with fitted silhouettes and flamboyant shapes, while colour was also a key point of interest, predominantly purple, green, gold and pink. The Lebanese designer cast a mix of models and influencers to walk in the show – including Lebanese Australian humanitarian and entrepreneur Jessica Kahawaty, her mother Rita Kahawaty, Lebanese actors Cynthia Samuel Bakri and Adam Bakri, German fashion influencer Leonie Hanne and plenty more.
Giambattista Valli
As always, Giambattists Valli presented a visual feast of true escapism through dramatic shapes, huge ruffles and pretty bows. Nothing short of exuberant, we loved the shoulder-less numbers with their cascading ruffles, trains and fitted bodices in several shades of pink; the designer cited Beverly Hills as his inspiration for the colour scheme. Almost certainly destined for the red carpet, we predict we’ll see one of these couture pieces at the Oscars or Met Ball later this year.
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Schiaparelli
The house’s use of faux animal heads and fur divided opinion – but it certainly got people talking. The now viral show dubbed ‘Inferno’ was inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy, with the designer pointing out the perfect metaphor for the torment that every artist or creative person experiences when creating a collection. Looking past the shock factor, highlights of the collection included the sleek lines, tailored suiting and imaginative twists on classic outerwear and dresses.
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Valentino
Reminiscent of the 1980s club scene and Studio 54, Valentino presented its show at a famous Parisian spot under the Pont Alexandre. We love how resident creative head Pierpaolo Piccioli used flamboyant and extravagant nods to the party scene – the brand’s signature hot pink was still present within many of the pieces, albeit mixed with softer pastels, as well as black and white.
THE BIG MOMENTS
JM HAEDRICH/SIPA/SHUTTERSTOCK; @KYLIEJENNER; @DIOR; @ROSIEHW; LAURENT VU/SIPA/SHUTTERSTOCK
VIPs
From the arrivals to the after-party looks, plenty of celebrities and VIPs descended on Paris to take in this year’s shows. Highlights included designer Amina Muaddi, actresses Anya Taylor-Joy and Elizabeth Debicki and BLACKPINK's Jisoo at Dior. We also loved SL-favourite Rosie Huntington-Whiteley at Valentino and Kylie Jenner at Jean Paul Gaultier.
LAURENT VU/SIPA/SHUTTERSTOCK; @KARLPHOTOGRAPHY
Schiaparelli
Although we’ve touched on the collection, we couldn't round up the most viral moments without throwing in Schiaparelli’s animal head pieces. Designed to spark conversation, the show’s front row featured Kylie Jenner dressed in a fresh-off-the-runway lion’s head dress and Doja Cat dressed in a head-to-toe ruby-studded beauty look, consisting of 30,000 hand-applied Swarovski crystals.
Viktor & Rolf
With ball gowns worn upside down, sideways and off-centre, Viktor and Rolf’s show was far from predictable. Perhaps a comment on the topsy-turvy nature of world events or how easy it is to manipulate and edit photos – either way, we loved the impressive craftsmanship and exciting nature of this collection.
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THE STREET STYLE
The fashion was equally as exciting off the catwalk as it was on. Influencers and street style stars put their best fashion foot forward with exaggerated silhouettes, print and leather, while others nodded to the upcoming season’s trends with barely-there dressing and bright colours.
@ALENA.MILAN.PHOTO; BERTRAND-HILLION MARIE-PAOLA/ABACA/SHUTTERSTOCK; ACTION PRESS/SHUTTERSTOCK; JM HAEDRICH/SIPA/SHUTTERSTOCK
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