How To Build The Best Brow Toolkit
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How To Build The Best Brow Toolkit

It’s no secret that well-groomed brows add structure and definition to the face. But there’s more to filling, shaping and enhancing them than you might think. Here, we’ve tapped some of our favourite make-up artists to explain the different formulas and how best to use them…
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BROW GEL

“Brows frame the face and elevate your features, when done right they complete your look. Most formulas fall into two categories: fixers and definers. Fixers hold your brows in place, while definers help fill in sparse areas, allowing you to manipulate the shape and fullness of your brows. The Jecca Blac Brow Seal is the best affordable clear gel out there right now. With its waxy gel-like formula and long, fine comb applicator, it pushes your brows up with fierce, all-day hold. This isn’t a product for the faint-hearted – if you love that bold, brushed-up laminated look, you’re going to be obsessed.” – Katy Jane, make-up artist & founder of soon-to-launch ScattyZebra

“Similar to mascara, brow gels can be either clear or tinted. They work by coating the hairs and shaping them into place, resulting in a subtle, groomed effect. If it’s tinted, use a light hand and make sure you only coat the hairs, not the skin beneath, otherwise it will look messy. I love the Blink Brow Bar Tinted Brow Gel, the spoolie is small and comes out saturated in exactly the right amount of product.” – Levi-Jade Taylor, make-up artist 

BROW PEN

“Pens are relatively new to the beauty scene, but they’re great for achieving realistic hair-like strokes and fullness. Use them to extend the shape of your brows – whether it’s a longer tail or a bushy inner brow. Find a starting point where your brows are sparser, then use short, dash-like strokes to mimic your natural hairs. Glossier’s Brow Flick is great for novices because the wet formula is very forgiving if you make a mistake – but it also means you need to allow time to let it dry. You can use brow powder on top for extra definition, but you may find the pen alone provides you with enough bulk and density.” – Camilla Hewitt, make-up artist 

“A pen is really useful for adding definition at the head of the brow where we tend to have sparseness. I like the Nabla Cosmetics Brow Ambition for this. The key is to go light with the application, don’t press down on the tip too hard or excess product may bleed out of the pen. This type of formula is best suited to people with naturally full brows who want to just refine their shape and definition.” – Levi-Jade 

BROW POWDER

“Powders are great for those wanting to achieve a softer look. For the most natural-looking results, use a small, angled brush to apply the pigment and evenly distribute it through the brows. Stiffer bristles make precision application easier. Once you’ve coated your brush, dab it on the back of your hand to shake off any excess, then sweep it through your brows in the direction of your hair growth – but use a light-handed approach. Start with your arches before filling in the rest, then comb through with a spoolie to soften the edges.” – Camilla 

“Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Powder Duo is a true cult classic. Its finely milled, buildable formula blends like a dream and comes in 11 versatile shades, making it easy to find your match and create realistic-looking dimension. Best applied with an angled brush, it lets you softly shape and build colour to your desired intensity. Use the lighter shade at the front of your brow for a natural fade, and the deeper tone at the tail for extra definition.” – Katy

BROW SOAP & WAX

“Soap and wax are ideal for those that have wayward hairs that need taming. Both formulas keep arches sculpted and locked in place. The secret is to never oversaturate your brows with product otherwise they’ll never set, and you’ll be combing them for hours. You’ll also need a good setting mist to activate the soap and a spoolie brush to comb the formula through evenly. There’s no set application rule here, just make sure you apply both to a clean brow and treat it as a base product for a cleaner, more defined finish.” – Camilla 

“These types of fixer formulas are best applied before any complexion products. My go-to is West Barn Co’s Soap Brows. It’s really easy to use, simply spritz the tin with setting spray, roll a spoolie through the product, then run it upwards through your brows to create the lift you want. To set the product, I’ll then run my finger lightly over the hairs in the same direction to slick them down onto the skin.” – Levi-Jade 

BROW PENCIL

“Pencils remain one of the easiest tools for filling in sparse brows. You want a pencil that has a spoolie on the other end. Start by using this end to brush your brow hairs into your natural shape. Doing this first allows you to see where any areas are uneven and need a little more filling. Then move upwards with your pencil, focusing on the sparsest areas first to prevent your brows from looking overdrawn. Use feather-like strokes in the direction of growth, towards the tail of your brows. Once you’re happy, start filling in the inner corners with upward and outward pencil strokes. If you do end up using too much product, reduce the density with your spoolie.” – Camilla 

“First, I like to set my brows and then add definition. My best tip is to let the gel dry fully before going in with a pencil, this way you can see what shape you’re working with and not be tempted to overdo it. M.A.C’s Pro Brow Definer is user-friendly, quick to apply and comes in 14 shades, making it easy to colour match. One thing to note is that brow pencils aren’t the most forgiving, so unless you’re a seasoned make-up lover or a professional, I wouldn’t recommend filling in the whole brow. Instead, use light, hair-like strokes only where needed for that effortless, natural finish.” – Katy 

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