SL Reviews: Jidori Covent Garden
The concept...
Australian chef Brett Redman’s a busy chap. The brains behind Elliot’s in Bethnal Green and Borough Market announced earlier this year he’d be opening The Neptune oyster bar in the soon-to-be-opened Principal Hotel in Bloomsbury, plus a sibling for Jidori, the Japanese restaurant he opened with Natalie Lee-Jo in 2015. The east London original is small in size, but massive on flavour – its katsu Scotch egg became an instant Instagram hit. Now, head chef Shunta Matsubara and the team have taken over a four-floor Georgian townhouse in Covent Garden. As fans of the original, we were keen to find out whether this new spot would replicate the same success.
The setting...
First up, we’re pleased the team rehired architect Giles Reid to bring the townhouse to life. The design is ultra-modern: despite the charcoal and navy walls, the large bay windows, light-oak furniture and pastel pink detailing make this a bright, cosy space. Split across the building, there’s now a standalone bar, plus plenty of nooks for group dining. With the addition of sharing platters (£18pp) and a ten-guest karaoke room in the basement, this is one cool spot to book for a birthday party.
The food...
As per the original, the focus here is on yakitori – a pair of Goosnargh chicken skewers, served up multiple ways. Our pick is the ‘tsukune’ (minced chicken served with egg yolk) and the ‘hatsu’ (hearts and bacon). But it’s not all about meat – one of our favourite dishes was a new starter comprised of charcoal-baked sweet potato with Japanese mayo and egg salad, while grilled miso-glazed aubergine skewers let veggies in on the action. In fact, the new dishes proved our top picks: soft, buttery hake tempura with seaweed tartare sauce, and grilled prawns in roasted nori sauce were both rich, umami-laden bites.
The drinks...
As you might expect, Japanese beers and sake loom large on the menu. On the sake front, there’s something for everyone, from beginners to seasoned sippers (the Misty Mountain is sweet rather than super dry, so a good place to start). Cocktails also make an appearance – happily the Ginger Ninja (fresh ginger juice, gin, yuzu and Asahi beer) has made the trip from Dalston.
The verdict...
This is definitely a step-up from the original, both in terms of location and dishes (we’re still thinking about that melt-in-the-mouth hake). We’re also pleased that one of London’s best desserts (ginger ice cream, miso caramel, sweet potato crisps and black sesame praline – sounds simple, tastes incredible) is now available in two locations. We’ll definitely be back for our turn on the mic. Jidori - get some Whitney lined up pronto.
15 Catherine St, Covent Garden, WC2B 5JZ
Visit Jidori.co.uk
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